Big 5 (4/5), 7 summits (1/7), and Zanzibar (1/2)

Habari gani?

How are you all? Here everything is fine, although it is strange to realise that within less than two months I will be back in the Netherlands.
As it has been a while (and I received some impatient requests) I’ll please you with elaborating on the diverse trip I made with Suzanne and the relaxing days I spent on Zanzibar with my parents. Since mankind has a thing for thinking in statistical terms the title of this update has a rather quantitative appearance. Unfortunately we have not been able to spot all species that make up the big five (the leopard did not complement the list that for the rest consists of elephant, rhino, buffalo, and lion). However, nature compensated this incompleteness with an impressive spectacle. When it comes to the seven summits (referring to the continents’ highest summits: Mount Everest (Asia), Aconcagua (South America), Mount McKinley (North America), Carstensz Pyramid (Australia-Oceania), Mount Elbrus (Europe), and of course Mount Kilimanjaro (Africa)) we succeeded. Regarding the Zanzibar Archipelago we only visited one (the one commonly referred to as Zanzibar by Westerners) of the two large islands.

The holidays started with picking up Suzanne from Dar es Salaam airport in the night (her delay of three hours was nothing compared to delay on her way back).
As a toddler Suzanne had lived in Dar herself, so the first thing to do was finding her parents’ former house. Our search unfortunately was not successful, but we must have been quite close. We did not mind that much since we were at the beach and found ourselves a comfortable spot anyway.
In order to make a good start I wanted to introduce Suzanne to local nightlife by going out in a small discotheque in my neighbourhood later on that day. After some beers too many we went wild on the roaring African vibes together with all our new friends.
Not fully sharp we went snorkelling the day after with Erwan and Caroline, the French neighbours, at Mbudya Island where Pepijn picked us up for a boat-trip.

The day after our journey to the northern safari-circuit started. Passing the lovely green Usambara Mountains, which we considered to visit (which we did not in the end because of limited time), we unexpectedly had a marvellous view on the roof of Africa that was breaking through its eternal cover of clouds; from a distance of about 150 kilometres we caught a first glimpse on the glaciated crater of Kilimanjaro. Whoohoo; sometimes I can get so childishly enthusiastic! Some hours later we arrived at Arusha where we had a nice view on another volcanoe and Tanzania’s second highest mountain; Mount Meru. Quite an impressive landmark, Joey!

Arusha, starting point for most Tanzanian safaris, served us the same purpose. Our first destination for two days would be Lake Manyara National Park. Lake Manyara is characterised by its unique position at the edge of the Rift-Valley; a valley that crosses the African continent from North to South over several thousands of kilometres. At the steep higher slopes many sources originate that supply the whole park and eventually the salt lake itself with water. On the higher slopes one finds rainforest, whereas on the intermediate slopes a semi-dense forest is located. When descending you cross a savannah-like landscape which ultimately ends in the vast open salt-plain. Although the park is famous for its tree-climbing lions (lions usually do not climb trees), the one lion we saw was lying in open grass. Yet, we did see hippo’s, wildebeests, giraffes, all kinds of antelopes (Thompson and Grant’s gazelle, bushbuck, dik dik, impala), mongooses, monkeys (vervet monkeys, blue monkeys, and an abundance of baboons), many bird species (fish eagle, pelicans, horn bills, vulture, ibis, marabous, and other kinds of storks), elephants, buffaloes, zebras, and warthogs. In the evening we met Bart and Evelien, who coincidentally camped nearby. Bart is my colleague from Ethiopia. After having fulfilled his half a year for the Foundation he, together with his girlfriend, travelled through Tanzania for a month. It was fun to have a beer with someone you don’t know, but with whom you instantly feel a strong relatedness. They just climbed Kili and recommended us their deal. Later on they would go to Zanzibar where we might meet them.

After having camped in a tent we continued the safari to the famous Ngorongoro crater. The crater with a crater-rim of 600 altitude meters and a diameter of 19 kilometres appears to be a naturally fenced zoo. Whereas the outer, and to a lesser extent inner, slope is covered with rain forest, the crater’s rather flat bottom is mostly open. Only some small forests, hippo-pools and a lake make landmarks that deviate from the dominant grasslands. The landscape facilitates spotting wildlife perfectly (especially since the wildlife does not seem to bother at all about the presence of the four-wheel-drives; we had had to wait for animals foraging on the path and even a recalcitrant lion that was reluctant to move). On top of the species we saw at Lake Manyara we now found hyenas, elands (de largest antelope species), black rhinos, and flamingos. Ngorongoro also was the location for the spectacle I mentioned. On our way back to the crater rim we saw five hyenas walking around with what had been a young wildebeest. Suddenly an adolescent male lion closed in. Being intimidated the hyenas let go of their kill and left it to the lion. Yet, the lion was not in the position to eat comfortably; the hyenas were circling him and bit him in the tail once in a while. We could hear the lion roar and at the same time we could hear the hyenas calling in their peculiar way for their friends. Within minutes the lion was surrounded with about twenty hyenas. Some snapping and roaring followed, but eventually the lion had to run away and was chased by several hyenas. Even when the lion lied down the hyenas did not stop intimidating him.

The safari was great, but three days of sitting and standing in the car was enough; we both felt like some physical challenge. The next destination would be Moshi. From Moshi we could see Kibo, Kili’s crater, covered with a white blanket of fresh snow towering almost five kilometres higher. Our climb would start several hundreds of meters higher than Moshi, at Marangu (1800m). The Marangu-route is the most common route (and, painfully, is referred to as Coca-Cola route [luckily it was not high season]). The choice for this route was mainly based on our unwillingness to pay roughly the double amount for other routes (where guides and porters are compulsory as well). The walk up to the Kilimanjaro is not only unique because you will encounter snow in Africa, but also because of the different climate zones you cross every day. The first day we crossed an impressive dense, dark and moist rainforest which was inhabited by chameleons and blue and colobus monkeys. It was very obvious why it is called a rainforest because we (and also our stuff that was packed in extra layers of plastic) became soaking wet. We spent the night at 2700m at a hut not far from the following climate zone. The following climate zone is characterised by a much more open landscape; the moorland with its occasional bizarre pre-historical and large plants. We were able to spot Kibo and Mawenzi, Kibo’s ‘twin summit’ with its rocky towers. The second night we slept at 3700m (an altitude that already corresponds to the altitude of ‘respectable’ summits such as Mount Fuji, Mount Cook, or Pigne d’Arolla). The third day led us through the polar dessert; we walked through an empty and chilly landscape as we approached ‘the saddle’ between Mawenzi and Kibo before reaching the Kibo-hut at 4750m. We would ‘sleep’ at this altitude (which is only 60 meters lower than Mont Blanc) for four hours before leaving at 23:30 to Uhuru peak, Kilimanjaro’s highest point at 5895m. Without proper acclimatisation sleeping of course was out of the question.
During the ‘climb’ I was a bit cynical initially as I perceived the approach as impure. We were guided by obligatory guides who reminded us continuously to go ‘pole pole’ (slowly slowly), we only carried light daypacks as porters carried the bulk, pathways were very comfortable and not steep, nice meals were prepared three times a day (and even at 4750m we were supplied with fresh fruit!), and we slept in comfortable huts. In contradiction alpinism requires rapidity (rapidity means safety in the Alps; you climb in the night and morning striving to be back before the heat of the day to minimise risk of avalanches of snow, ice and rocks, and collapsing snow-bridges on the glacier. On Kilimanjaro there are no such reasons to be rapid at all; going at an excruciating slow pace is even recommendable as it helps acclimatisation). In addition, I prefer climbing without a guide and carrying my own weight (which may imply carrying over 20 kgs when making your own camp). Yet, we were very happy to sleep in a hut after having become totally wet; even at that lower altitude we felt a bit cold. Moreover, the nice meals were much more comfortable than Pim’s strafontbijtjes;).
In case you now start believing that climbing Kilimanjaro is a piece of cake; you’re wrong. Although I belief that whenever you are in only a moderately good physical shape, your fitness is not the limiting factor (I have not had a high heart rate during those days), there is a bottleneck that concerns everyone; the altitude. The altitude, especially in combination with (too) limited acclimatisation, weakens the body. When climbing in the Alps you may climb a certain amount of altitude meters a day, but you make sure you descend in order to sleep not very much higher than the night before; the altitude at which you sleep is even more critical than the altitude you reach during the day. Now however we slept at the highest point of the day. The majority of people on our route includes an extra day for acclimatisation (which contributes to a significant higher chance of making it to the top), and several people I spoke used Diamox (a medicine that suppresses altitude sickness). We did neither.
In the night of the summit ascent we took off at the typically slow pace. Though, in this case the pace did not annoy me; I was not able to move much faster. Whenever I accelerated a bit I almost had to vomit. Moreover, I was not able to eat or drink (while drinking is essential in fighting altitude sickness since it avoids the blood to get too viscose, which hinders oxygen transport even more) and had a severe altitude headache. Suzanne actually had to vomit and felt miserable. Before reaching the crater rim she considered going back. I did not feel to well either, but was confident that I would make it to the top. Persuaded that she would than miss the view at Gilman’s Point (the point where you reach the crater rim) she continued. Once we reached the rim there was no view; it was still dark. Thus, she simply had to join our way to the summit that we made by traversing easy snow fields at the crater’s inner site (up to then we had only encountered some small dots of snow; most of the fresh snow that had fallen just days before had melted away in the African sun). Again Suzanne had to vomit. My headache intensified, I felt as if walking in a dream, and had a bad balance (if the route would have required any technical climbing skills I would have had to return). I seriously feared a starting brain oedema for a moment (every year a number of people die on the Kilimanjaro because of brain or long oedema caused by the altitude) and decided to sit down and drink water although my body was protesting. Whereas before Suzanne had difficulty in keeping up my pace and was not sure about continuing, she now felt strong and did not want to let go her spirit; she continued at a ridiculously quick pace (people were literally looking at her as if she was mad). After some minutes I continued at a similar pace (I wanted to get it over with and then descend as quick as possible as symptoms would decrease). In the meanwhile the first sunrays of the day shone their purple light on the glaciers and fresh snow in the crater. I had expected much less ice and was delighted (still, the prognosis is that by 2020 all of Mount Kilimanjaro’s glaciers will have melted away). In the distance I spotted Suzanne who was already waiting for me on Uhuru peak. Usually I am very concentrated when I reach a summit, trying to determine and admiring all the surrounding summits, but now I was just dazedly planning to take a picture when I suddenly had to run off; I could not help decorating the summit with yesterday’s complete meal. I was happy that we did not bring the bottle of Kilimanjaro-beer that we considered bringing for a toast on the summit. Despite the moderate temperature (which I estimate at 10 degrees below zero without wind) my camera had some issues with making pictures; the lens protector did not open completely although I had carried the camera close to my body and it had endured colder conditions without problems in the past. After some impatient pictures we went down. I ran off in front (as with ascending I simply do not like descending slowly and wanted the miserable feeling to leave) and enjoyed some drinks at the hut before Suzanne and the guide joined me.
To conclude; it was a wonderful experience to cross several climate zones and come across snow in Africa. Still, I would recommend anyone who considers climbing Kili to include the extra day for acclimatisation to increase pleasure and chances of actually reaching the summit. Even then you are still disobeying ‘the rules of acclimatisation’ to a certain extent. The first of seven summits is in the pocket. Which one will follow next? Let’s first climb in the Alps again this summer.

Back in Dar we found Ronald who had just arrived from Ethiopia. With the three of us we went to Sweet Eazy for some life music and dancing. By coincidence we met a couple of alumni of Wageningen University which wade us a quintet.
The day after we went to Bagamoyo some 60 kilometres to the North to find Swahili ruins, enjoy a nice crab lunch, and admire the palm forests, mangrove trees and beach. Tanzanians appeared again to lack the touch to make a museum worth visiting (which I will elaborate on later on). During our lunch we were honoured to have Richard sitting at the table next to us. Allow me to introduce Richard. Richard is world famous in Africa as he, a Tanzanian, is the winner of Big Brother Africa which was followed by millions of Africans throughout the continent.

After the intermezzo in Dar it was time to take the ferry to Zanzibar as it always is good to have a rest after effort. On our arrival we were welcomed a bit too enthusiastically by the abundance of street touts that appear not to be willing to, as long as they are alive, stop following you around. We went to the hotel where Bart stayed at and he instantly guided us around through pretty Stone Town with its narrow turning streets and Swahili-style buildings. Zanzibar-worthy we had dinner and cocktails at the beach.
The next day Suzanne and I wanted to admire Stone Town by daylight and, after a while, entered the Beit El-Sahel (palace museum). After having seen some moderate exhibitions on the sultans and Swahili culture I could not help laughing at the following hilarious sight. An Arab-influenced dress was exhibited that, together with a scarf, was worn on special occasions. The dress and scarf were complemented with an umbrella for dancing. Instead of showing an original umbrella, displaying a replica, or at least presenting a contemporary umbrella in corresponding colours, a pink and yellow Sponge Bob umbrella was selected!
Together with Bart we went to Kendwa at the island’s northern tip to find comfortable huts at the edge of the beach. As a result of abdominal issues we did not do a lot of activities. Yet, we went snorkelling at an impressive drop. Unfortunately, strong wind made that the water was not really clear. On our way to the snorkelling spot we encountered a number of dolphins. A sportive challenge was the massage we endured; we both survived though and the feeling in my legs returned soon.

Back in Dar once more we had to improvise a bit; apart from Bart also our Ugandan colleagues had come over. But first I was going to spend the final day of the holidays together with Suzanne on Bongoyo Island. Satisfied with all the things we had seen and done we finalised the holidays with the best food I have had as long as I have been in Tanzania; super-fresh sushi! Unfortunately, the adventure would not stop there for Suzanne as she had a delay of 36 hours on her flight back!

After the holidays I enjoyed some days of meeting and working with the Ugandan team. It was nice to exchange ideas and enjoy ourselves. Yet, the house/ office was a bit small for seven persons (especially since we did not have water for five days and the cleaning lady was sick). Apart from work we went to Coco beach and had some party.

As if the fun never stops I went back to Zanzibar only days later. My parents visited Tanzania and after having made some safaris, I would meet them on the ferry to the island. They were a bit unlucky with their flight as well; because of ice on the wings they missed their connecting flight on Zurich. As a result they had to fly over London, Dubai, and Dar es Salaam to Arusha. In addition, their luggage was lost. After 1,5 week they found back my mother’s suitcase. My father’s suitcase was not returned however before the end of their holidays (which resulted in the funny situation that he was predominantly wearing zebra and elephant shirts; there is simply not a lot of choice to expand your wardrobe in Serengeti National Park;)).
It was really great to see my parents again after five months. On the boat to Zanzibar we could chat along. We went to Jambiani; a large stretch of beach next to a pretty village with Arab-influenced houses and, naturally, many palm trees where you can constantly hear the surf banging at great force at a broad coral reef some kilometre from the beach. I could stay at their comfortable house next to the beach. Apart from the activities it was really relaxing to have a wine on the veranda enjoying the unequalled starry African night (and a visit of a bush baby), walk on the beach during sunset, and have all the time to chat. It was funny to realise that my parents were impressed by my Kiswahili when I had conversations with Tanzanians; without really recognising it I am acquiring the basics more and more step-by-step.
The days actually were quite active. To start with, we went snorkelling twice after having been dropped off by a narrow fishing dhow which was stabilised by floaters on either site. Whereas Suzanne and I had been a bit unlucky (at the time we had a lot of wind which made the water much less clear than usual) we now had very clear water as we snorkelled behind the wave-breaking reef; the water was like a mirror. We spotted, among others, two species of murene eels that I had not seen before, a sea snake, lion fishes, and an electric ray. Also, we went for a swim with dolphins. Suzanne and I had not done that as we did not want to bother those wild animals. But since my parents went anyway and I was quite curious I joined them. The water again was extremely clear and, more importantly, a group of 21 bottle nose dolphins allowed us nearby. They did not seem distressed at all; they approached me up to a meter and mated only 2 meters away;). We could swim with them for minutes and whenever after some minutes we could not keep up we went back to the boat that would drop us off again in front of the dolphins. Additionally, we visited a National Park with many interesting plants and trees, fresh water crabs, many red colobus monkeys that approached us up to less than a meter, a monitor lizard or python (it was large but too quick to identify), and a forest cobra (which just showed up a meter in front of my feet, when only wearing flip-flops;)). Furthermore, we made a small walk through a mangrove-forest. Finally, we made a spice tour before going back to Stone Town. It appeared quite hard, but fun, to identify the spices and fruits ‘in the wild’.
It was really nice to see my parents again and, as I now have only 1.5 month left here, it made me realise that although I will regret leaving this country, I am looking forward to see family and friends again.

Now I am on my way to the Mtwara region bordering Mozambique. I will also go to Mozambique to expand my visa once more. Hopefully the rain season will not start too heavily otherwise I will get stuck probably very regularly.

Baadaye!